We started documenting the conversion of the Jon boat as, upon a search of the Internet, we did not find many sites with good information on how to accomplish this. There were not very many pages available but the ones that were helped tremendously. So we decided to document our conversion project. We hope it helps.

We bought the boat with just the front decking done. We removed this deck as it was not very long and not done the way we wanted (no hatch, was not closed in, etc.)

We used 3/4" plywood for the front decking. One important thing to consider... the weight of the conversion on the boat! You might be surprise at the weight of one sheet of 3/4" plywood. I would not be surprised if it weighted 75lbs.


Decking as one piece and fitted to boat.	We cut the rough shape out and then used a jig saw to slowly shape the edges until the fit very snug against the sides of the boat.		Trolling motor mount. 2x4 sandwiched between 2 pieces of angled aluminum. Aluminum also bolt under inside lip of boat to provide reinforcement.

	Aluminum bar installed under inside lip of bow is bolted to front of boat. The aluminum bar (90 degree bent aluminum) is much wider then the motor mount. This added reinforcement.	Hatch cut out and wood was coated with marine polyurethane. Two thick coats of marine polyurethane were used. The plywood was not pressure treated.	Aluminum support bar is from old deck and will be removed.

Side aluminum support. Bolted through side of boat.	Deck gets carpet and aluminum support is removed. Upright plywood supports decking.	The upright is supported by a small 2x4 which was placed under the deck and screwed into it. The upright was then screwed into the 2x4. The bottom of the upright was screwed into the ribs of the boat, same as the flooring (later)

Deck carpeted and showing hatch.	The shape of the hatch was chosen so that it provided best access to the middle of the boat under the decking.		Lock installed. We used bungee cords to secure tackle trays to underside of hatch. Very convenient.

We cut out a small section of the bent aluminum and made a striker plate where the lock could latch onto.		Bolted square aluminum to bottom of deck for support of lid. Very important.	Wires are for trolling motor. We could have installed a plug but connections were already made up.

	Cut down batter box and screwed into wood upright so battery would not shift.	Completed deck!

We need to install different screws so ex-ting will fit.

Adding a rear deck and changing the rear seat to one that can be moved from the side (for easy of steering) to the middle and up on a pedestal (for active fishing). The wood being used is 3/4" for durability and stiffness.

The wood was coated with two coats of heavy duty polyurethane to prevent water/rot damage. All hardware is stainless steal or aluminum. Next we plan on improving the flooring. This should bring the look of the boat into the bass boat category.

		The boat is a 14' Lowes. It has riveted ribs (which I find get in the way
Before the conversion

Here are some photos of the wood before it was carpeted

The carpeted board was mounted with toggle bolts. A 1" hole was drilled through the four corners of the aluminum seat. Corresponding bolt holes were drilled through the carpeted deck...	Bolts were then placed through the deck and the toggles spun onto the bolts. The deck was laid on the aluminum seat so that the toggles went through the bench seat. They were then tightened up.	Two pedestals are being used so that the chair can be placed in on the side to drive and the middle to fish from.	Note the rear edges of the deck. They were cut to clear the boat corners but also to allow the fuel hose up from underneath. They also function as handles.

		We used the back inch of the aluminum bench seat to support the middle of the deck

	Completed project (sorry about the lack of light, it was late)		Driving seat is on the side for ease of steering

Seat in middle and on pedestal for fishing		Finished rear deck and rear flooring.

Here are some photos of the rear support for the back deck. We took some angled aluminum and used the existing outside handle bolts to secure it to the transom (no drilling!)

Sorry, taken at night. I bent some PVC pipe and attached it with U-bolts.
(I know, the fenders are next to be replaced)

Most of my boats have been named this or similar
(II Bassin' Fools, etc.)

We used 3/4" plywood for all the decking. The flooring is 1/2 (3/4" is very heavy). Under the flooring I placed some Styrofoam sheets. These help the wood to fit more tightly and reduce noise being conducted through the bottom of the boat. But the main function of the foam is to prevent items and leaves from sitting under the wood flooring. We did not use pressure treated or marine plywood. Instead we coated all wood with two coats of marine polyurethane. We put it on thick and it's like a plastic coating. Also the wood is not exposed to the sun so we don't know that pressure treated or marine grade would last any longer then what we used. All metal is aluminum or stainless steel.

Something that needs to be thought out is the weight that decking adds to the boat. Pick up a sheet of 3/4" plywood and you will see what we mean. We would not be surprised if the two decks added 100lbs to the boat.

We are no carpenters but feel free to e-mail me any questions or comment you have.

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